Wednesday, May 5, 2010


Thursday 22.4.2010 Thorung Phedi - Muktinath (Day 12)

At Thorung La 5416m

I’ll wake up at alarm clock ringing at 4AM. It’s totally dark and we pack our bags in the light of the headlamp. When walking to dining area I can see already lights on the slope of the Thorung La, earliest trekkers has already started climbing 1 km steep slope. We’ll eat with good appetite and start our climb at 4:30AM. The first section of the slope is the steepest and the pace is very slow, but steady. Regular drinking breaks and breaks to breath normally naturally guide our way to Thorung High Camp. One hour later we arrive to High Camp and have a short break. At the same time sun is starting to rise and we don’t need anymore our headlamps. Altitude is 4.8 km. After two hours we have arrived to small Tea shop at 5.1 km altitude. Sunrays are already warming a bit, but there’s chilly wind, which prevents us to take off our Gore-Tex clothes. Endless ridges follow each others, before finally we see prayer flags and see the highest point of the pass (5.4 km). This is my 4th time at Thorung La pass, but first time at spring. It looks same as before :)

Descending towards Muktinath

Spending hour at the top and then starting 1.7 km descend onto Muktinath. It’s hard and tough to go down steep sections with backpack. I’m a bit afraid of my knees, but they seem to be OK. It’s again very beautiful and sunny day, our luck continues to have extremely good weather on the days we spend on the high altitude. After 9 hours trekking we arrive to Muktinath and pass the temple, which is second holiest place in Nepal for Hindus. The streets of Muktinath are full of horses, cows, chicken, dogs, cats, etc… But there’s also cars, motorcycles and buses, which is due to the road up to Muktinath. There is constant traffic to temple by young motorcyclists, who drive Hindu pilgrims onto temple and back.

On a break after 7 hours trekking

I’m really tired when we get to Muktinath. I’ll check my temperature in the evening and it shows a bit fever. I have felt a bit cold on the other side of the pass and crossing the highest pass has taken it’s toll. Hopefully in the morning I don’t have fever anymore and we could continue trekking as planned.

Altitude : 3700 m, Trekking time: 9 hours

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